KZ camshaft info
The below info is mostly for my own personal future reference, but hopefully someone else out there in internet space gets a benefit from it.
Obviously a ton of options for aftermarket cams, but I’m going to highlight only three specific cams.
- specifically for the z1 / kz900 / kz1000 motor.
- specifically for 1015cc or 1075cc piston kit builds.
- oem cams – .325″ lift intake – .300″ lift exhaust – 235˚ duration at .50″
OEM upgrade replacement cam
- Get a webcam 118.
- It has .365 lift and 246 degrees duration at .050″.
- There will be no noticeable crazy power band difference. It will just be a bit more power than stock across the rev range.
- This is a good cam if you have a bone stock motor, or only an upgraded piston kit.
High rpm power cam
- Get a webcam 110.
- It has .400 lift and 256 degrees duration at .050″.
- According to the KZ cylinder head guys, you want to avoid cams with more than 250 degrees duration at .050″ for a daily rider street bike, unless you have a lot of compression in the motor or a bigger CC motor (1075 or bigger). Or unless you want to be racing revving the shit out of it.
- For example, I have this cam in my weisco 1015cc build and the cam makes all its power from 6 – 11k rpm which is super fun but 1015cc is hair small to take full advantage of the cam at lower rpm. Plus revving the shit out of your motor is going to take a toll on it at some point (probably).
- I combined this cam with a shorter gearing set up, since my engine makes its power up high and it revs higher now, my gearing compliments this to get me in the power band sooner. 80mph in 5th I’m at 6k rpm which feels good.
- I’m convinced this type of cam with a lot of duration will make the most peak power, especially with a ported head and carbs.
- It really feels like a strong VTEC Honda. It keeps pulling and pulling.
- Get a Megacycle 470-15.
- It has .410 lift and 242 duration at .050″.
- I would say this type of cam with less duration is best for a street bike that you want to idle really well and has broad power across the middle rev range, but it’s not going to have the gnarly high rpm power VTEC feel that the webcam 110 has.
- I’m considering picking up a set of these cams for making an optional touring / trip setup I can swap on when I want.
- For example, i’m thinking about making my gearing taller, so at 80mph in 5th gear, I’m at 4k rpm (2k lower), and then put these torque cams in so my power band is lower in the range and spread more evenly. Prob be a super comfy chill touring bike.
- But like I said, I don’t think this set up will make as much overall power as compared to a cam with a lot of duration.
- This cam is for hammering it 4 – 7k rpm
- When 1/4 pistons are at TDC, from right side of engine, with advancer aligning to T mark, intake and exhaust cams should be pointing directly at each other perfectly. This is 110 lobe centers.
- Over time, cam chain stretches and both cams will slightly sit in a retarded position. (which visually, from right side, is; intake cam tilted up a little and exhaust cam tilted down a little)
- 110 lobe centers is stock and will give broad power.
- Advancing intake cam 1-2 degrees gives more torque. (tilted down a hair)
- If you advance the intake 4 degrees and retard the exhaust 2 degrees, thats 106/108 centers.
- Changing the lobe centers will just shift the power around a little bit to be higher rpm, or spread evenly, or torquey. Each cam has recommended lobe center numbers but you can put them where you want.
- Prob stay between 105 and 109. Some tuners will even say stock oem cams are better at 108 than stock 110.
- Technically I didn’t degree my cams. With my adjustable cam gears I pointed them perfectly at each other then turned them both down a hair, what I considered a few degrees to be somewhere around 105-107.
- shim under bucket starts after .410 lift
- Prob don’t want over .410 lift for motors under 1100
- 256 degrees duration at .050″ is max duration unless you have a much bigger cc motor than 1100
- Stick with stock base circle size
- Your set up all needs to match. Porting, carbs, compression. If you’re doing a high rpm power cam, make sure the head flows for it.
- Prob use red loctite on bolts that hold cam onto slotted cam gears. I did.
- 30 tooth cam gear rotates twice for every one rotation of the crank. So, if you advanced your intake cam 1 tooth that is 24 degrees! 720 % 30 = 24.
5 responses to “KZ camshaft info”
Published - Jun 6, 2017
Jesus fucking Christ. Just when I think the z1 is solid and done, something else breaks. The first gen KZ motor has a weak spot. The caps which hold the camshafts down and in place, have shitty bolt holes. They’re m6 threaded holes in the soft aluminum head. The sequence for removing the cams and […]