So, I’m still working on the seat for the cb650. This is my first time working with metal since high-school metal shop. So, it’s been a while. I’m pretty much winging it. Below are my steps for figuring out what I’m doing and how I’m doing it. So far it’s turning out real good. I’m ready to start cleaning edges up, make some bends, and then welding I guess.

1) Photoshop it out

2) Template it out

3) Plan it out

4) Draw it out

5) Cut it out

6) Check it out

So, I decided I’m not an old man quite yet.
I’m going to take my 79 cb650, and make it more cafe-racer’ish.

This is how it stands right now after I put SuperBike bars on it… which I hate by the way. I should’ve kept the clubmans on.

Check out this mock-up I just made in Photoshop…
This is the list of stuff I’m going to do:
- put my clubmans back on
- lower the headlight
- ditch my gauges, or lower them so low, they’re not noticeable
- cut a bit of the rear of my frame off
- make a new seat out of metal (with Adams help) and keep it raw metal to match my tank
- get a seat pad made by J&J auto upholstery, real slim, like Adam’s 360t seat

These are the new fork ears I just bought so I can lower my headlight. They’re from Emgo. $50.

What do you guys think?
-Ed

I guess I’m an old man.
I put more comfy bars on my 1979 cb650.
They’re SuperBike bars from JC Whitney. $20.

Not sure if I like them. Gonna give it a couple weeks and see if they grow on me. Or, I might think about flipping them upside-down. We’ll see…

Below is the info you need to get pod filters dialed in on your 79-82 cb650.

79-80 (mechanical piston slide carbs)

  • 120 main jet (stock is 92)
  • 42 slow jet (stock is 35)
  • mixture screws set to 1.75 turns out
  • float height set to stock measurement
  • mac 4-1 header / exhaust (ebay)
  • emgo 48mm pod filters (ebay) – (you have to slightly modify the 2 inner pods to clear the choke, i doubled up the rubber sleeve and used rubber epoxy to seal, glue them together)
  • Better than pod filters are velocity stacks. Bike runs best with these. They’re a little hard to find though. You want 43-46mm

All jets bought from either:

81-82 (constant velocity slide carbs)

DynoJet makes a kit. All the info you need is on below links (the kit says 80-82, but that is a typo… it will only fit 81 and 82):

* Note

All this info for 79-82 is dependent on the fact that you’re living around sea-level, and your carbs are already running good. If you have shitty carbs, you might wanna rebuild them and get them clean as fuck before you attempt putting pods on. If you’re high up in the mountains, you want slightly smaller jet sizes than what I spec’d out.

* Note

The cycle will run a little hotter, simply because you’re going to be making a significant amount more power than stock. Makes sense that more power (more of an explosion in the combustion chamber) is going to create more heat. To offset this extra heat, I recommend adding an oil cooler. INFO FOR THAT HERE. Also, for 79-80 carbs, my set up is the tiniest bit rich, so it’s absolutely not running lean. Lean would add extra heat. My spark plugs have been a perfect light-golden brown for over a year now.

-Ed

The 650 rebuild is finished. It’s running pretty damn good. Going easy on it for the first few hundred miles.

Here’s what I did in the last step:
- Re-did my wiring, I cut out about half my wires. Props to Adam!
- Installed oil cooler
- Spot-painted frame
- Re-mounted gauges lower and tighter
- Installed new rings, assembled engine. Props to Nick!

- Original wiring

- Shit we cut out

- New wiring… streamlined!

- Ready for the engine to go back in

- All back together

- Gauges mounted lower and tighter

- Custom headlight switch, mounted in fork ear
- Oil cooler adapter plate which makes the entire cooler set-up work, purchased from:

www.randakks.com

Thanks to everyone who helped. Couldn’t have done it without you guys. Extra special thanks to Adam, for his intricate wiring knowledge, and Nick for his master engine expertise.

-Ed