• head was ported by Larry Cavanaugh like mine.
• has webcam 110 like mine.
• 1100cc

Curious to see what it’ll sell for.
Obvious difference I see is it doesn’t have dual plug / dual coil head.

• Link to this replica for sale on eBay.
• Link to legit original S1 that sold on eBay for $107k in 2013

Obviously a ton of options for aftermarket cams, but I’m going to highlight only three specific cams.

• specifically for the z1 / kz900 / kz1000 motor.
• specifically for 1015cc or 1075cc piston kit builds.
• oem cams – .325″ lift intake – .300″ lift exhaust – 235˚ duration at .50″

OEM upgrade replacement cam

• Get a webcam 118.
• It has .365 lift and 246 degrees duration at .050″.
• There will be no noticeable crazy power band difference. It will just be a bit more power than stock across the rev range.
• This is a good cam if you have a bone stock motor, or only an upgraded piston kit.
• Don’t need to upgrade valvetrain, even though you prob should
• Don’t need to port head.

High rpm power cam

• Get a webcam 110.
• It has .395 lift and 256 degrees duration at .050″.
• According to the KZ cylinder head guys, you want to avoid cams with more than 250 degrees duration at .050″ for a daily rider street bike, unless you have a lot of compression in the motor … or a bigger CC motor (1075 or bigger). Or unless you want to be racing revving the shit out of it.
• For example, I have this cam in my weisco 1015cc build and the cam makes all its power from 6 – 10k rpm which is super fun but 1015cc is hair small to take full advantage of the cam at lower rpm. Plus revving the shit out of your motor is going to take a toll on it at some point. Normal riding 4-6k rpm feels fine, but no, I can not go WOT at 4k rpm, it bogs a bit.
• I’m convinced this type of cam with duration will make the most peak power, especially with a ported head and carbs.
• It really feels like a strong VTEC Honda. It keeps pulling and pulling.
• Should port head a little.

Torque cam

• Get a Megacycle 470-15.
• It has .410 lift and 242 duration at .050″.
• I would say this type of cam with less duration is best for a street bike that you want to have broad power across the middle rev range, but it’s def not going to have the gnarly high rpm power VTEC feel that the webcam 110 has.
• I don’t think this set up will make as much overall power as compared to a cam with a more duration.
• This cam is for hammering it 4 – 7k rpm street riding, light to light.
• Should port head a little.

Degreeing cams

• When 1/4 pistons are at TDC, from right side of engine, with advancer aligning to T mark, intake and exhaust cams should be pointing directly at each other perfectly. This is 110 lobe centers.
• Over time, cam chain stretches and both cams will slightly sit in a retarded position. (which visually, from right side, is; intake cam tilted up a little and exhaust cam tilted down a little)
• 110 lobe centers is stock and will give broad power.
• Advancing intake cam 1-2 degrees gives more low-end torque. (tilted down a hair)
• If you advance the intake 4 degrees and retard the exhaust 2 degrees, thats 106/108 centers.
• Changing the lobe centers will just shift the power around a little bit to be higher rpm, or spread evenly, or torquey. Each cam has recommended lobe center numbers but you can put them where you want.
• Prob stay between 105 and 109. Some tuners will even say stock oem cams are better at 108 than stock 110.
• Technically I didn’t degree my cams. With my adjustable cam gears I pointed them perfectly at each other then turned them both down a hair, what I considered a few degrees to be somewhere around 105-107.

Cam gotchas

• must clearance the head starting at around .380 – .390 lift depending on the casting of your head
• shim under bucket starts after .410 lift
• Prob don’t want over .405 lift for motors under 1100
• 256 degrees duration at .050″ is prob max duration unless you have a much bigger cc motor than 1100 with at least 10.25 compression
• Stick with stock base circle size
• Your set up all needs to match. Porting, carbs, compression. If you’re doing a high rpm power cam, make sure the head flows for it.
• Prob use red loctite on bolts that hold cam onto slotted cam gears. I did.
• 30 tooth cam gear rotates twice for every one rotation of the crank. So, if you advanced your intake cam 1 tooth that is 24 degrees! 720 % 30 = 24.

Denco was an old performance company. They list the mods they made to their z1.

Fuck the z1 and kz’s are the best. I did a Kelly loop on mine last night. Such a great bike. 6-10k rpm with my cams, vtec kicks in yo. Best feeling.

The planned trip was to OC, MD for couple days in the sun with my family culminating with the eclipse. Having done a few trips to OC, I knew I wanted to avoid the usual beach traffic on DE1 and 113. Firstly, book your ride in advance cause the spots sell out quick. I grabbed my ticket the night before ($39 for the bike and myself) since the slots were very limited for vehicles. I got the last ticket on the 10AM boat. After that it was all sold out till 3:30PM and later.

I couldn’t have asked for a more perfect morning to ride to Cape May. No traffic, blue skies, and the perfect temps. They ask you arrive at least a half hour early. True to my form, I was an hour early. The woman at the gate informed me that bikes are first on, first off. Solid perk. I parked in the lineup lane that I was instructed to go to and then familiarized myself with the provided amenities in the terminal. In typical NJ fashion everything was overpriced and done in poor cheap suburbanite taste but they have a shitty free mini golf course! The ferry arrived on time and the attendant slobbered over the KZ while he checked me in. Catching old dudes left and right. On the boat I was surprised that all the ferry men wanted was they bike lined up sideways to the cars, on the kick stand with only a large chock under the front wheel. No securing or strapping whatsoever. I was a bit reluctant but figured the ferry men knew best.

The boat itself is 3 decks. The first deck is the vehicle’s, second is a large interior section with more overpriced and shitty food, and the 3rd Deck is wide open with bar and lounge chairs. 3rd deck it was for me. I tend to get sea sick when indoors on a boat and to my surprise the ferry rocked more than I thought it would.

We came into the Lewes, DE port a little over an hour and I was first off as promised.  I hit throttle and ripped to DE1 only to find gridlock more fierce and frustrating than any I’ve dealt with on my other usual route. Thankfully there was a bus lane and large berm that I could use to skirt the god-awful traffic the rest of the way to OC.

My takeaway? Was is a cool experience? Yea of course. Being on a boat rules. Would I  do it again? Nah. Not worth the money, time, and unavoidable traffic. Next time I head down here I am determined to find a route from south of Dover to OC via all back roads.

For a crappy old 70’s bike… man they can make some power.

Pics are from here:
http://elcorramotors.blogspot.com

I saw this one on ebay and pretty much got a half dolphin.
It’s a kz1000r – S1 – which was 1 of 29 made for AMA superbike racing.

I try not to make posts that involve stuff from outside sources like ebay etc…
But this was too good to pass up.

Who knows what an early 80’s kz1000r is?

The z1, kz900, kz1000 are all basically the exact same bike.
Same frame, engine, power etc etc…

I’m a big fan of analogies… here are a couple.

• In high school I had an acura integra. the holy grail of the integra was an integra type R.
• or… if you played football… you probably liked mustangs. the holy grail of mustangs was the mustang cobra R.

So, long story short, the kz1000r is the holy grail of the z1/kz platform.
Eddie Lawson was the kawi factory racer at that time, and the kz1000r was basically a replica of his race bike.

So sick. So far it’s bid up to $67K which is pretty nuts.

Enlarge the below image of text to read description of the bike.

Random kz1000r vid below. (not the bike sold in the ebay post)

A couple Honda and Suzuki in there.

Pics are shitty low res. whatever.

Pretty cool to see how they set certain things up. I recently added a lockhart oil cooler to my z1 and set it up in the normal spot above the headers and ran the lines over the engine and under the fuel tank.

Take note of how some of the race bike oil coolers are. Wayyyy in front or all the way in the back. Wild. And some are frickin huge.

Some really cool seats too.