XR650L – how to
Yes, I talked shit on these, but I had an idea and it’s the only bike that works. Planning on shipping it out west to leave out there, to do trips. Heres the way I thought about it.
- Ultra low compression motor will never break
- Can do a week of highway or a week off-road no prob
- Inexpensive bike
- Honda never changed a nut or bolt since 1993
- Buy one under $5k that didn’t appear abused by a dual sport dad and under 10k mileage
- Just spend a little more to get one that’s solid with low miles and it should run forever if maintained. Do alllll the fluids.
With a couple mods the bike can be not that gay or embarrassing to ride. Mods I did:
- De-smog and de-snorkel
- Uni air filter / DG v2 pipe with 1″ v2 silencer, end cap drilled out 3/4”
- Without the 1″ silencer the DG pipe was insane too loud.
- Dave carb mod. 160/58/2.25/ shim needle
- FritzCo wide front sprocket so countershaft doesn’t get beat up
- Dual sport dad had done Eibach front and rear suspension, bash guard, and 14/46 gearing
- Only decent looking bigger tank is IMS clear tank. Get that one.
- Eventually I added the “Sutton” xr650L oil cooler kit
What I don’t like:
- The years that have black color on top of the seat
- Keeping the turn signals
- Stock tail light
- Low bars, gotta go tall bars
- Non-knobby tires. Dunlop D606 are good.
What I do like:
- More fun to ride than I thought. Plenty of power after de-smog/intake/exhaust
- More capable in woods than I thought
- With all dumb shit removed looks like a normal dirt bike just bigger
- Good gas mileage, motor barely needs service ever, ultra reliable
6 responses to “XR650L – how to”
Published - Mar 7, 2017
Due to the stuck crank and the sick smell of mouse piss coming from the motor I decided it was necessary to split the cases to clean and inspect everything. I was happy to find that all the internals appear to be in good condition after a good cleaning. The stuck crank seems to just […]